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Restaurant Review: Pikayo
By: Barbara Tasch Ezratty
Serene. Sophisticated. Satisfying. Each of these words can be
used to describe Pikayo, the seven-year-old restaurant in
Condado that specializes in a contemporary fusion cuisine.
Our last visit to Pikayo happened to coincide with the day
owner/chef Wilo Benet’s food was written about in the New York
Times, so there were moments that evening when the elegant foyer
of the restaurant was not quite all that serene. Rather, one
could feel the excitement and expectations of the people who had
come – without reservations – to see and taste for themselves.
At Pikayo, reservations are wise. Benet has attracted a long
list of loyal clientele over the past seven years: it’s much
easier to get a table when you are expected. Maitre d’Marting
Tejada might steer you to the wonderful bar where you might
wait, of course. Bartender Gustavo Esteras pours only the best.
He – Pikayo – is well known for margaritas and martinis and
Esteras can probably answer any liquor-related question you can
think of.
The foyer, bar and dining rooms are separated by wood-defined
glass walls, some of which are curved, some squared. Each
defines a private space. Booths and tables fill the rest of the
dining room.
There’s a section on the menu called Fritters and Hors
d’Oeuvres. One of Pikayo’s most famous nibble foods is here:
Arroz Pegao with Spicy Tuna Tartar and Chives ($10). Arroz Pegao
is the crispy layer of rice that is scraped from the bottom of
the pan. In some homes, people vie for it. At Pikayo, Benet
makes a fresh batch of rice, rolls into little balls, fries them
and tops it with diced raw tuna loin with a chipotle chili, mayo
and chives. It’s a beautiful presentation that resembles the
traditional pegao, and a great nibble with wine or a drink,
while you’re looking over the menu.
There’s a lot to choose from for a main course. Most entrées
are about $30, such as the delicious Angus Beef Tenderloin
Bistec Encebollado with Pikayo Fries, but another local
favorite, Veal Tenderloin with Rum and Star Anise Sauce ($36) is
really something to write home about. It’s made with a reduction
of dark rum, Chardonnay, whole cinnamon and Star Anis, and a
demi-glace that gives it the special glazed look that makes it as wonderful
to see as it is to eat.
All dishes come with a vegetable and some kind of puree: it
might be polenta, a root vegetable, couscous or fingerling
potatoes.
The wait staff at Pikayo is knowledgeable, so trust them to
guide you through the menu. But make sure they mention the
restaurant’s most popular dessert, the incomparable Chocolate
Ice Cream Alaska ($8).
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